Isadora Duncan had a penchant for floaty scarves. Back in the late 19th Century the American dancer had made quite the name for herself in Europe, as she reclaimed dance and movement as high art. She was exiled from America due to her Soviet Union sympathies and resided in Europe until her dramatic and tragic death. In September 1927 Isadora was holidaying in Nice, France. In the seat of a convertible next to her lover who could have known her long and delicate accessory (scarf, not man) would be the cause of her demise?
Blowing in the wind as they drove around the winding French Riviera roads, the scarf caught in the spokes of wheel and axle, flinging Isadora from the car and breaking her neck. On my weekend jaunt to Nice I decided sunglasses would be my accessory of choice to create the Riviera glamour. Nice in the Twenties must have been a fine place to play. I can see why the free spirited and vibrant Duncan would have enjoyed it. The light and heat revitalise you, especially after a long winter, body and soul. I went for the cheap wine and sunshine but got a few more treats along the way.
What I enjoy most about a holiday to somewhere you've never been before is the complete emancipation from your real life. In London I am poor and usually cold, while in Nice I am decadent and hot! The Euro bears no relation to real money and I am eager to spend 15 of them on all you can eat mussels and chips, or moules frites. On our first night we went to Le Festival De La Moule, which was nestled amongst a whole host of fish themed restaurants in the city centre.
What I enjoy most about a holiday to somewhere you've never been before is the complete emancipation from your real life. In London I am poor and usually cold, while in Nice I am decadent and hot! The Euro bears no relation to real money and I am eager to spend 15 of them on all you can eat mussels and chips, or moules frites. On our first night we went to Le Festival De La Moule, which was nestled amongst a whole host of fish themed restaurants in the city centre.
| I was already drunk on beer consumed at the gothic-esque styled drinking den of the old town that is Les Distilleries, Ideales that when presented with a champagne bucket full of mussels in white wine & chopped garlic I thought I had died and gone to heaven! | When it comes to French wine the supermarket shelves resemble an affluent baron's wine cellar |
The staff at this quaint little restaurant were friendly and welcoming, even to tipsy British girls. Unlike the abrupt waiters I encountered in Paris, they let me muddle through my poor and by that point slurred French and ensured we got a holiday snap at our table. Just don't be fooled - The chips are the mussels' decoy! Do not stuff your face with them, stay true, and try the mussels in as many sauces as you can. The spicy salsa based sauce is wonderful and the saffron flavoured curry one isn’t bad either. I'd avoid the sea food sauce, its pink and it's rather odd to find a tiny little prawn hiding in your mussel shell. I sampled 4 different buckets and decided the simple garlic and white sauce delighted me the most. Maybe it was the wine that swung it…
When it comes to French wine the supermarket shelves resemble an affluent baron's wine cellar. There are so many to choose from but the prices are the stuff of dreams! You can get a perfectly satisfying wine for 3 Euros. We took our bottles to the beach on our second evening in Nice. Everyone else does this too, so watch out for broken glass in the pebbles.
When it comes to French wine the supermarket shelves resemble an affluent baron's wine cellar. There are so many to choose from but the prices are the stuff of dreams! You can get a perfectly satisfying wine for 3 Euros. We took our bottles to the beach on our second evening in Nice. Everyone else does this too, so watch out for broken glass in the pebbles.
 | Nice's beach and the surrounding beaches are all pebbly so no escaping that. What you do benefit from by venturing further a field is a less populated beach. I hopped on the train at Gare de Nice Ville and went two stops down the line to Villefranche-sur-Mer. The train takes you right to the beach, which is in a cove so you are sheltered from the wind and feel toasty warm! The little shack on the beach that sells booze and food. The 20 strong collection of ice cream flavours included a biscuity Tiramisu and incredible green pistachio you should try. Unless of course you are allergic to nuts... |
The seawater lived up to its azure blue reputation and although I thought it had been banned in France, I couldn't help but notice some bikiniless boobs and no one got arrested for being 'le topless' - Squeamish Bikini neither condones nor condemn such behaviour.
If you can bear to pry yourself off the beach, venture up hill. In the swankier neighbourhood in Nice you will find a tranquil and secluded setting with a panoramic view of the city. The Franciscan Monastery and Gardens in Cimiez were surprisingly quiet on a sunny Saturday afternoon. The soft terracotta colouring of the decorative Monastery gave way to stony stairs that descended into surrounds of immense natural beauty. The arrangement of lush green foliage and colourful flowers framed against a bright blue sky was truly picturesque. Wandering over to the wall I looked out onto the hills and sea. They are by far the best aspect of Nice. The older buildings with wooden shutters and balconies are romantic but there seemed to be a lack of forward planning and all the newer buildings are concrete boxes lacking imagination and the ability to inspire.
If you are looking for inspiration right next to the gardens, passed a gorgeously old and twisted olive grove, is the Matisse Museum. One of the pioneers of modern art, he lived and worked in Nice from 1917 until his death in 1954. The museum may not house his most famous works but it showcases Matisse's development well. It was interesting to see the objects that he had painted next to the paintings themselves. You could see the elements he had highlighted and details he had chosen to simplify. Nice seems to offer the enjoyment of the simple things in life; beautiful weather, beautiful food and beautiful surroundings. Add wonderful company to this list and you have a heady holiday mix!
Squeamish Nicola
If you can bear to pry yourself off the beach, venture up hill. In the swankier neighbourhood in Nice you will find a tranquil and secluded setting with a panoramic view of the city. The Franciscan Monastery and Gardens in Cimiez were surprisingly quiet on a sunny Saturday afternoon. The soft terracotta colouring of the decorative Monastery gave way to stony stairs that descended into surrounds of immense natural beauty. The arrangement of lush green foliage and colourful flowers framed against a bright blue sky was truly picturesque. Wandering over to the wall I looked out onto the hills and sea. They are by far the best aspect of Nice. The older buildings with wooden shutters and balconies are romantic but there seemed to be a lack of forward planning and all the newer buildings are concrete boxes lacking imagination and the ability to inspire.
If you are looking for inspiration right next to the gardens, passed a gorgeously old and twisted olive grove, is the Matisse Museum. One of the pioneers of modern art, he lived and worked in Nice from 1917 until his death in 1954. The museum may not house his most famous works but it showcases Matisse's development well. It was interesting to see the objects that he had painted next to the paintings themselves. You could see the elements he had highlighted and details he had chosen to simplify. Nice seems to offer the enjoyment of the simple things in life; beautiful weather, beautiful food and beautiful surroundings. Add wonderful company to this list and you have a heady holiday mix!
Squeamish Nicola
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